Restaurant Reviews

Knee Deep: Restaurant review


160 Johnson Rd,
Wilyabrup, WA


Lunch Wed-Mon noon-3pm


E $18-$28
M $30-$45
D $15-$18; dégustations $70-$85


Many talented young chefs have cooked at Knee Deep, but there's something about Baxter Newstead that marks this cellar-door restaurant as one to (re)watch. A CV that includes Noma Australia and Vue de Monde sets expectations high, and the dishes make good on that promise. Australian ingredients star, from marron enriched with a lime-sharpened brown butter emulsion to pickled quandongs that freshen a meaty slice of oxheart tomato grilled over wood. This introspective attitude isn't entirely solemn, however - lunch might include reimagined lamingtons and a dinky half-time orange jelly. Although the quality of the estate wines continues to rise, the offer of well-chosen imports poured by enthusiastic staff is a pleasing development. The Trust The Chef tasting menu remains the best way to experience Knee Deep, especially when a head-turning "rose" of white plum dusted with powdered rosella brings things to a close.
(08) 9755 6776
Bookings essential
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Baxter Newstead
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.