Nikki To
REVIEW
Even if you’re well versed in Peter Gilmore’s leitmotifs – marine life, umami depth, elusive ingredients, the tension between cream and crunch – his cooking at Quay always holds you in its thrall. Hand-dived scallops, each as sweet and soft as custard, make gripping counterparts for shaved abalone, raw palm hearts and liquorice kombu in a hypnotic soy and vinegar dressing. Unctuous black-pig salami draped over creamy shiitake chawanmushi could be its own dish, but layered over confit pork jowl and smoked trotter broth it all becomes a dissertation on intensity and richness. Micro-seasonal greengage plums bring their unmistakable tart-sweet taste to the otherworldly “White Coral” dessert, still as arresting as the peerless views. There’s still room for surprises in amongst the fine-dining trappings, too, from the unaffected nature of the on-it service to the value woven into the exhaustive wine list. Here, too much of a good thing never seems to be enough.
ABOUT
Quay
Australian
Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks
(02) 9251 5600
Chefs Peter Gilmore, Troy Crisante & Tim Mifsud
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
