"Dining hall" has something of an undergraduate vibe, but rare is the cafeteria that offers wallaby, let alone served cured, rolled up in pickled vine leaves with dollops of burnt-onion purée. The bones of this diner still reflect the room's former Belgian-Beer-Café life; service is more friendly than professional, and the drinks list is as strong on grain as it is grape. Plating is modern, with playful elements: blocks of watermelon and raw tuna presented as look-alikes with basil, cucumber and goat's curd, for instance. If seasonality and seasoning aren't always en pointe, flavours are true, as with currants and cavolo nero lending a sunny Mediterranean air to lamb rump with gnocchi. Dessert shines bright: taking the caramel in the crème caramel right to the edge of burnt, adding a splash of Japanese whisky and then flecking it with smoked sea salt is a fittingly smart coup de grâce.
(02) 6260 6066
- Wheelchair Access
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.