Three months and more than a few dollars later, Quay emerges from a major renovation. Relax: it's still great.
It's as luxe as ever, glowing afresh, but the interior is now oriented towards intimacy, and makes more of the view of the bridge (and is less at the mercy of cruise ships at port). The menu is all new, but Peter Gilmore's style is clear in concise plays of texture conjured in rare and unusual ingredients cooked with precision. The texture of oysters probably isn't improved by turnin gthem into a cream, but a dusting of caviar and crumbled crisp chicken skin raises no complaints. A little dish of fish maw, smoked salmon roe and cured egg, meanwhile, makes an inspired DIY condiment to lush steamed sea-urchin custard.
Service is much improved both in focus and manner, and while the drinks offer swings wide and pricey, its gusto is admirable. A higher Quay.
(02) 9251 5600
- Wheelchair access
- Private room
- Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
- American Express
- Diners Club
Peter Gilmore & Rob Kabboord
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.