Restaurant Reviews

Royal Mail Hotel: Restaurant review

Royal Mail Hotel

Address

98 Parker St (Glenelg Hwy)
Dunkeld, VIC

Hours

Lunch Thu-Sun noon-2pm
Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-9pm

Prices

Dégustations $125-$165

REVIEW

Locally sourced goat, storied wines from a cellar that holds up to 30,000 bottles, and a kitchen plot bigger than most market gardens. This is the culinary toybox available to chef Robin Wickens. There can be few shorter distances from paddock to plate than at this upmarket country pub in Victoria's pastoral Western District. A tender slice of goat comes with the tang of Japanese pepper and beets. Duck served with its dinner (if it eats fermented barley, turnips and white strawberries, you do, too) is a signature. Menus come with extra snacks - tuna banh mi, or Rocket Fuel, a foamy cocktail of ginger, rocket and lemon sorbet. To finish? A slab of chocolate ganache, caramel ice-cream and hemp seed wafers. The comfortably elegant room may divide diners with its somewhat prosaic architecture, but this much is true: service is spot-on, the food memorable, the wines unforgettable and the location beside the Grampians' Mt Sturgeon unique.

Phone:
(03) 5577 2241

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Robin Wickens

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.