REVIEW
Sean’s Kitchen is celebration city, embracing the ethos of an eclectic New York-style brasserie. Its high vaulted ceiling, hanging jamon and impressive kitchen flames erupting from the charcoal station create exuberance soaked up by an eager crowd of diners. The casual downstairs bistro space pulls off its amalgam of railway diner-meets-butcher shop chic; upstairs is a more intimate, moody affair with small tables among oak barrels. A knockout wine list provides hand-written explanatory notes (‘laid back reds’, ‘big, bold and bubbly’) and includes serious drops (a glass of 1995 Penfolds Grange, $250). The menu addresses contemporary trends with copycat favourites (popcorn cauliflower, lobster rolls) but flexes its muscle with simple stuff from the fire pit, such as charred curls of chilli-flecked SA squid mixed with miso-dressed watercress on roasted Berkshire pork belly, or chunky grilled kingfish cutlet with rustic romesco. A Bowdy-inspired Nutella soft serve cone with toffee banana, ‘ice magic’ chocolate sauce and hazelnut shortbread crumb is a nostalgic winner. Staff are friendly, though they’re often slow to revisit your table.
Phone:
(08) 8218 4244
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Sean Connolly
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
