Nikki To
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but Andrew McConnell is too creative to slavishly follow the rule book. On face value, Japan is the touchstone for Supernormal, both in the aesthetic – vending machines; individual light boxes for every place at the bar – as well as the influence present in many dishes. But this approach is mixed with the chef’s devotion to flavour, no matter its origins. Spot the signature pot-stickers making their way to every table, then order your own. Follow them up with lamb shoulder, braised for eight hours and presented with sesame-crusted flatbread to dip into a Sichuan pepper broth. From the raw bar, ubiquitous kingfish sashimi becomes something to write home about, with mandarin dashi and a ruffle of hijiki seaweed providing punch. The floor team ably balance duty and fun, showing just enough care without smothering you, while consideration abounds on the menu, with a page of staff recommendations from the hefty wine list and helpful explainers of the different sake styles. Welcome to the world of Andrew McConnell: free-wheeling, fun, flavour-forward and far better than any carbon copy.
Phone:
(03) 9650 8688
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Private room
Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Andrew McConnell & Perry Schagen
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2020 Top 50 Rank – #49
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
