Restaurant Reviews

The Gantry: Restaurant review

The Gantry

Address

Pier One Sydney Harbour
11 Hickson Rd
Walsh Bay, Sydney, NSW

Hours

Lunch daily noon-2.30pm;
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $18-$26
M $32-$38
D $16-$18

REVIEW

"Ingredient - dash - ingredient." For some reason, this style of menuwriting often goes hand-in-glove with a particular school of cooking where the natural tastes and textures of said ingredients are subjugated to whichever fiddly technique happens to fascinate the kitchen at a given moment. Maybe all that dehydrating, puréeing and cooking things for hours in plastic bags leaves no time for such niceties as adjectives. The careful placement of tiny flowers on whiting fillets paired with tarragon and cucumber goo counts for little when the plate it's on (and ergo the fish) isn't hot. This is a hotel restaurant; lord knows what the weary business traveller looking for a steak does when they're faced with "beef - pickled greens - black garlic - seaweed". It's not offensive, but seems to want for oomph. Service and wine are hotel-adequate, likewise the dining room; opt for a waterside table on a sunny day to make the best of it.

Phone:
(02) 8298 9910

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Joel Bickford

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.