Restaurant Reviews

The Lakeside Mill: Restaurant review

The Lakeside Mill

Address

Shop 1
38 Lakeside Blvd
Pakenham, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Wed-Thu 11am-10pm,
Sat-Sun 7am-10pm

Prices

E $10-$14
M $26-$40
D $14-$16
Dégustation $80

REVIEW

What's a restaurant like you doing in a place like this? Not to besmirch the good name of Pakenham, but the Mill is an oasis of finely tuned restaurant values in a 'hood where pizza joints and chicken shops rule the roost. The upmarket breakfast/brunch zone goes haute at night, when a menu from rising star chef Jake Kellie delivers dishes as dramatic as anywhere in Melbourne. An opening salvo of snacks, a lozenge of pickled juniper with lemon verbena powder and bronze fennel among them, sets the mood and the next five courses hold the pace. A chicken "lollipop" stuffed with chicken mousse and sticky with jus gras keeps things light, while Balmain bug tortellini in kelp broth with nublets of smoked eel hits a refined note. Whether it's a braised lamb tart topped with discs of white beetroot and fried lemon thyme, or a classic orange marmalade soufflé and toasty sourdough ice-cream, Kellie pulls out all stops. Pakenham ahoy.

Phone:
(03) 5940 8700

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Breakfast
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Jake Kellie

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.