Restaurant Reviews

The Press Club: Restaurant review

The Press Club

Address

72 Flinders St
Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Tue-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

Lunch 2-6 courses $35-$90,
Dinner 5-8 courses $95-$180

REVIEW

You couldn't accuse George Calombaris's flagship of being stuffy. From petits fours hidden in a fold-up backgammon board to the room's retro-style cream and gold-hued curves, The Press Club doesn't shy away from the theatrical. While the kitchen remains deeply committed to celebrating Hellenic food culture - with Greek ingredients frequently seen on the menu, from feta-whipped butter to the sweet-salty loukoumades that kick off dinner - it draws just as heavily on Calombaris's memories of suburban Australia. A tiny cheese toastie with tomato sauce is a nostalgic add-on to spanner crab and tomato jelly while vegetable chips arrive at the table pegged to a scale-model Hills Hoist. Although the painstakingly arranged plates often feel like they're more about the sizzle than the steak (oyster blade with crisp-fried baby kale is well-handled, sure), warm service is a win. Athenian drink options aplenty and an apéritif trolley keep the mood lively.

Phone:
(03) 9677 9677

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
George Calombaris & Reuben Davis

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.