Restaurant Reviews

The Press Club: Restaurant review

The Press Club

Address

72 Flinders St
Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Tue-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $19-$24
M $39-$46
D $18-$19;
dégustations $125-$170

REVIEW

The city's best '80s playlist and fluent floor staff lend an undeniable sense of fun to this 40-seater, where supple leather booths and sculptured copper bring a sense of occasion. Ponder the premium wine list then opt for a five- or eight-course dégustation or go à la carte at lunch and weekday dinners. Chef Reuben Davis handles the pans with flair and imagination. Much of the menu is new (the gimmicky clothesline endures in a chocolate dessert) but Greece is still the word in dumpling-like polenta keftedes with Pyengana cheddar and bacon mayo and the horiatiki salad of Clarence River prawns with melon, XO sauce and mint so fragrant it steals the show. Psari – kingfish – is par-cooked then flash-fried and served in a kakavia soup. Purists may baulk at a deconstructed mandarin baklava but epicureans won't fault the flavours.

Phone:
(03) 9677 9677

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
George Calombaris & Reuben Davis

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.