Restaurant Reviews

The Recreation: Restaurant review


162-170 Queens Pde
Fitzroy North, Melbourne, VIC


Lunch Wed-Sat noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Tue-Sat 5pm-9.30pm


E $7-$27
M $27-$39
D $15


Three guys with fine-dining experience walk into a North Fitzroy pub. The punchline? A local with all its hospitality fundamentals in place, a cracker of a wine list and a menu that includes name-brand steak (Hopkins River, O'Connor) with chips and snags with barbecued onions alongside more complex dishes like superb blood pudding and tortellini in a smoked duck consommé. Grossi Florentino alumni Joe Durrant and Mark Protheroe are front of house, ensuring smooth attentive service, while chef Steven Nelson (of Bistro Gitan) delivers a menu big on both flavour and classic technique. Baked scallops with salmon mousse may bring about 1980s flashbacks, but a veal tartare with pickled radish and a wasabi rouille or a mascarpone cheesecake with elderflower granita feel just about right now. A little something for everybody then, plus a bottle shop that includes aged gems from sommelier Protheroe's own cellar. Now that's a punchline.
(03) 9042 2707
Bookings recommended
  • BYO
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Steven Nelson
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.