Make an early booking at this small, beautiful modern Turkish restaurant in the unlikely surrounds of grungy Balaclava. That way hopefully the place won't be too busy (yet) and chef Coskun Uysal will have time to deliver his signature dish of cilbir - crisp chicken skin, smoked yoghurt, soft egg and brown butter - to your table himself, along with tales of his grandmother's Anatolian comfort cooking. This is the heart of Tulum: food prepared with love, generosity and flair in a bright, detailed, hospitable space. Whether it's the bold flavours in the succulent stuffed onions sauced with Turkish apple tea, the refined presentation of lamb alongside a quenelle of smoky aubergine and a sliver of pickled apricot, or the marvellous "mess" of halva, soft goat's cheese and pomegranate granita, there is great joy to be found in every dish. A constantly evolving - and improving - wine list completes the already very pretty picture.
(03) 9525 9127
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This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.