It's Turkish food but not as you know it. Coskun Uysal has taken his two-year-old restaurant on an extended jaunt around his homeland and the menu changes completely every three months. Wherever you tap in – the olive-oil braises of the Aegean, the seafood of the Mediterranean, the cornbreads and ever-present sardines of the Black Sea – you'll get a tasty lesson in Turkish cuisine expressed in thoughtful, contemporary ways. Slow-cooked celeriac might be dressed up with carrot purée and a powder made from celeriac shoots. Cacik – a cucumber and yoghurt sauce – is rendered as a daring dessert starring subtle black garlic meringue. Whatever the menu, expect staples like stone-ground tahini, an expanding suite of Turkish wines and even Australian-grown Ottoman varieties, and a hospitable neighbourhood experience that's worth a trip across town.
(03) 9525 9127
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This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.