Restaurant Reviews

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel: Restaurant review

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel

Address

98 Parker St (Glenelg Hwy)
Dunkeld

Hours

Lunch Sat noon-2pm;
dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-9pm

Prices

Dégustations $160-$190

REVIEW

Remarkable views of the southern Grampians are given full cinematic treatment in the new building housing chef Robin Wickens' flagship restaurant at the Royal Mail Hotel. Captured by floor-to-ceiling glass, the vista anchors the sense of place Wickens expresses on the plate through produce grown in the hotel's gardens and meat raised on nearby farms. Five- and eight-course menus start with big-flavoured snacks – pumpkin crisped in pork fat and sprinkled with pecorino, figs served with acorn cream and jamón – and then move onto dishes inspired by the gardens. Great Ocean duck might be teamed with hispi cabbage and poached green rhubarb, lamb with kohlrabi and sunflower seeds. Puff pastry forms a winning combination with quince and 'rotten-leaf' ice-cream. Service is urbane while the exceptional wine list is another reason to make the pilgrimage into Victoria's west.

Phone
(03) 5577 2241

Features

  • Licensed
  • Private room
  • Wheelchair friendly

Chef(s)
Robin Wickens

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2019 Top 100 Rank - #54
Food: ★★
Wine: ★★★
Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.