You come from a family of winemakers – why are you the only one focusing on fizz?
I was born and raised in the world of wine, but I knew far less about Champagne. The moment that really changed my life was the first time I tasted some old Champagne vintages, when I was an intern. That was the day I realised Champagne is a wine! Right then, I decided to stay and work in Champagne.
Be honest: does it matter what glass you serve Champagne in?
It’s hugely important. I have two types of glasses at home – a white and a red – and I play with both. It’s fun to do that when friends come over. If I pour La Grande Dame 2018 into two different glasses, I’m expressing two different versions of the wine. With a tighter glass, it’s like the wine is punching you. It’s straight to the point, almost minimalist. In a bigger glass, the wine opens up, there’s more generosity.
What about a Champagne flute?
I don’t use a flute. The shape of the glass keeps the wine too closed. I have the same fight with people who drink their Champagne too cold. When you raise the temperature, you allow the flavours to open. But the truth is, it’s all a choice. There’s no right way.
So, you’re not a fan of rules?
For me, wine is about sharing a moment with friends. Why would you want to make your friends follow rules? That’s just a bad idea. We are all different, so we’re bound to experience wine differently. That’s also why I never describe a wine. It’s personal. If I tell you I taste something and you don’t taste the same thing, I’m losing you, and that’s not the point, because wine is about connecting people.
How do you factor in all those varying experiences when making wine?
I have a team of 12 winemakers working with me, and I know all of their strengths and weaknesses. It’s like managing a sports team – certain people are good at certain things. I smoke, so I can never smell tobacco in a wine, but I’m very good at detecting trichloroanisole, which is when wine is corked – even lightly. The more you train, the more you develop your senses, but it’s not a superpower. Passion is more important.
Has the Champagne world changed much since your early days?
When I started, 30 years ago, we harvested at the end of September, beginning of October. Now we harvest at the end of August, beginning of September. The season has shifted by three weeks. Being able to create something consistent isn’t easy when the world is changing. Innovation is one way to adapt to global warming – and fortunately that’s part of our DNA. Madame Clicquot was a very innovative woman.
See more from Didier Mariotti at veuveclicquot.com
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