It's testament to chef Khanh Nguyen's gifts that the rock oyster's clean brininess remains front and centre in this flavour bomb. Teamed with coconut curry vinaigrette, curry oil, shallot and pepper leaf, the oyster still somehow emerges enhanced and triumphant. Michael Harden
Served yakitori-style on a bed of buckwheat kernels, these coal-grilled sweetbreads come slathered in a toasty hazelnut tarator that's scattered with a dust made from earthy fermented turnip tops. Just add translucent rings of bullhorn pickles and get skewered. Fiona Donnelly
A study in contrasting textures, colour and heat: creamy stracciatella balances the spice of XO sauce, shavings of fried Chinese "doughnut" provide contrasting crunch, and wedges of Thompson grapes offer just a suggestion of sweetness. Perfect with a $25 glass of Chartogne-Taillet grower Champagne. Gareth Meyer
Sure, O Tama Carey's curries are amazing, and, this being a hopper shop, her take on the Sri Lankan crêpes is reliably impressive. But it might be the green, fresh elements on her menu that make the most impact, and none more than this simple-seeming stir-fry of water spinach with shards of deeply savoury Maldive fish. Pat Nourse
Whether it's the size of the room (cosy) or the style of wording on the short menu (clipped to say the least), Templo is all about concision. But, as this gutsy plate of pasta demonstrates, economy of gesture doesn't have to translate to being less than generous when it comes to flavour or voluptuous texture. It packs a wallop. Pat Nourse
Scott Brannigan takes a three-tier approach to corn, grilling the ears, making an ash from the husk and turning the cobs into a fermented stock. Add tender squid, grilled spring onion and laksa leaf, and summer in Fremantle has never been more delicious.
A slice of eel gets a lick of flame and smoke before chefs Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Dürr apply a few clever touches – framing the eel's deep bass notes with lardo, adding furikake for savoury breadth, deploying iceplant and sea parsley for a fresh vegetal lift, and setting it all on a smooth bed of congee. David Sly