Restaurant News

Entrecôte City, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now.

By Michael Harden

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Entrecôte City, Melbourne.

The Alfred Place space once home to Prix Fixe has reopened as Entrecôte City, a more ambitious version of serial restaurateur Jason Jones's French-themed steakhouse in South Yarra. Marble-topped bistro tables, white tiles, opaque spherical glass light shades suspended from brass rods and a red neon sign are pure theme-park. Interesting video art and a more luxurious, less French-décor-101 approach in the upper dining room save it from collapsing under the weight of cliché. Another plus is the presence of chef Jason Rodwell (late of Albert St Food & Wine), who oversees a more substantial offering than at the South Yarra original with noticeable finesse. Steak frites is still the central event (decent Hopkins River porterhouse with bottomless fries, herb butter and a soft-leaf salad with a Dijon dressing), but there's also a strong seafood showing that includes oysters served with shallot vinaigrette and fresh lemon, a rather good scallop carpaccio with peas, lemon and crème fraîche, and a couple of pricey, hefty seafood platters (the $170 Grande Marée includes crab, prawns, oysters and sea urchin). There's also a decent breakfast menu (pastries, eggs, croquet-monsieur) and well-made coffee for a mere $2.50. The decently priced wine list leans French and there are good cocktails and a short, smart list of apéritifs. There's nothing here to scare the horses but Francophiles should be very happy indeed.

Entrecôte City, 6 Alfred Pl, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9654 8184. Open Mon-Sat 7am-midnight.

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  • Author: Michael Harden