Pinot noir and chardonnay take centrestage at this French-inspired 40-seat wine bar on Fish Lane, yet food is by no means an afterthought - even if the tiny kitchen appears merely tacked onto the end of the bar. Chef-owner Paul McGivern (The Wolfe, East Brisbane) shares the open pass with Peter Moon, last seen at the now-closed New Farm wine bar Anise, so expect plenty of finesse and flair on the plate and in the glass alike. Draw up a stool at the handsome vintage oak bar for maximum conviviality, or slide around the corner to a black leather banquette. There's a raised area, too, seating eight and suitable for larger groups, wine tastings and the like.
The main menu, divided into charcuterie, cheese and raw options, is bolstered by a half-dozen hot specials - deeply savoury veal tongue, say, boosted by miso and black sesame. Or lamb neck, nicely rustic with lentils and a porcini aïoli. A beautifully textured rabbit terrine is paired with muntries and al dente carrot, an earthy pistachio paste and scatter of roasted nuts bringing an extra layer of texture and flavour to the party. The big-hitting kingfish ceviche is lifted by kohlrabi kimchi and pops of citric finger lime, while properly ripened organic washed-rind cheese from Geelong's L'Artisan Le Rouge is cunningly paired with crisp baby potatoes and a buttery leek fondue, and scattered with salty deep-fried baby capers. This new moon shines brightly.
La Lune Wine Co, Shop 3, 109 Melbourne St (entrance via Fish Lane), South Brisbane, Qld, (07) 3255 2420, lalunewineco.com.au