Michael Greves
Our restaurant critics’ picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Mamasan Kitchen & Bar, Broadbeach.
Fast-paced Asian fusion from a kitchen with sharp skills and keen attention to detail? Step right up. This expensively kitted out and dramatically lit Broadbeach newcomer feels remarkably established, with plenty of timber and polished concrete, and surprisingly few clichés. Sure, there’s a portrait of Mamasan watching over diners, and, when we visit, a communal table with tanned GC glamazons hoovering Veuve, but in general, wielding a set of chopsticks here is a pleasant, grown-up experience. The menu suggests letting Mama choose, and it’s sound advice. A selection of five plates for $65 (seven for $85) kicks off with a chunkily diced and beautifully spiced Byron Bay pork san choy bau, chased by four lightly steamed Hervey Bay scallops crowned with a mix of black sesame mayo and chilli. A heaped plate of panko-crumbed squid scores more mayo, this time alongside, and is amped up with Sriracha, while a punchy fresh green papaya salad is studded with fat Mooloolaba prawns. The standout, though, is a slab of slow-braised wagyu with peanuts and daikon in a rich red curry sauce served with sticky rice and greens. The pan-Asian wheel isn’t being reinvented here, but it’s being spun well. Add a nicely judged, spice-friendly drinks list and it’s good times on the Goldie.
Mamasan Kitchen & Bar, Oracle Blvd, Broadbeach, Qld, (07) 5527 5700
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