Restaurant News

The Bleachers, Brisbane

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now.

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: The Bleachers, Brisbane.

The guys behind The Bleachers aren't the type to grandstand. Blink and you could easily miss the narrow-fronted façade opening onto West End's main artery. And with chef Ben Devlin (Paper Daisy, Cabarita Beach) aboard as co-owner/consultant that would be an oversight - there's more hitting tables here than the picture-perfect patties and buns served by The Bleachers' likeable Fortitude Valley sibling, Ben's Burgers. A clipped, clever menu sees a subtle but winning East-West theme at play in several dishes. The mixed salad is a case in point, the description underselling the jumble of wakame, kelp and dried fungus that adds interest to the usual leafy line-up, the flavours intensified by a shiso and sesame oil dressing. Chunky fall-off-the-bone short ribs are topped with vibrant Japanese-style pickles, lacy red slices of lotus root, and ginger and radish adding texture to the richly savoury beef. Green tea soft-serve is sprinkled with dried mandarin zest, and crowns a puff of choux pastry filled with mandarin crème pâtissière. Drinks are also on the money: just five wines but all available by the glass, including a cracking Queensland marsanne. Head for the hidden courtyard out the back replete with a chain-link fence and - yep - timber bleachers.

The Bleachers, 153 Boundary St, West End, Qld, (07) 3846 3005. Open Wed-Mon 11.30am till late.

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