The nation said to be perpetually on the brink of change is, in fact, changing, and for travellers to Havana this means first-time access to unique holiday rentals, cool bars and edgy art galleries. Lydia Bell witnesses the Cuban capital’s new revolution.
For a taste of old Cuba, Lydia Bell heads east. The Oriente and its stridently Afro-Cuban capital, Santiago de Cuba, remain largely untouched by the wave of change sweeping the island.