Of all the Italian white grapes newly planted in Australian vineyards, those from southern Italy, particularly from Campania, the hills above Naples, are the ones I find most exciting. The fiano grape has been grown in Campania since well before Roman times and is thought to take its name either from the grape the Romans called vitis apiana (apis, or bees, were attracted to the vines), or from a type of local apple called appiano. Both hint at the type of wine produced from the grape: often quite aromatic, it can have a honeyed richness at its core, balanced by a crisp, appley acidity. The few examples made so far in Australia indicate that the grape is equally at home in very warm climates (along the Murray River in the hot, inland, irrigated districts, or in Langhorne Creek) and in cooler climes such as the Adelaide Hills and central Victoria, which are in some spots quite similar to the vines' Italian homeland.
I've chosen fiano to match this pasta recipe because the wine's medium to full body and intense flavour stand up wonderfully to the salty, briny kick of the bottarga and the garlic, while fiano's lifted perfume and assertive character are just what you need to complement the herbal, citrusy flavours in the dish.
Aromatic yet crisp, an intense fiano will stand up perfectly to this spaghettini with its salty, briny and citrusy flavours.