We are very lucky in this country. Well, those who like their white wines with some bottle age are, at least. A number of our best wineries lay down some of their best whites each vintage to be released five, even 10 years later, when the wines have transformed from light, flighty, nervy young things into mature, rounded, far more satisfying drinks. Some winemakers provide this cellaring service with quantities large enough that when the wines do emerge from their dark slumber, they're widely available at very attractive prices. A bottle-aged sémillon, riesling or marsanne is exactly what you need for this spicy, fragrant dish, as they have heady aroma, rich vinosity and refreshing acidity. The wine's grapy texture is matched with the dense flesh of the chook and spuds; its citrusy perfume and acidity will take care of the chilli, coriander and yoghurt; and its bottle-aged toasty characters will echo the earthiness of the turmeric.
A white rich in vinosity, fresh with acidity and mature from a five-year slumber is Max Allen's choice for this spicy chook.