Why isn't there more marsanne planted in vineyards across Australia? As well-known central Victorian winery Tahbilk has been demonstrating for decades, the grape makes a wine that's not only refreshingly perfumed and lemony when young but develops wonderfully satisfying, honeyed, toasty complexity with bottle age. It's an amazingly versatile food wine, too: this dish is delicious with marsanne at any stage of its maturity. The sweetness of the beetroot, sourness of the onions and lemon in the dressing echo a crisp young marsanne, while the smokiness of the fish, heat of the mustard and richness of the honey would handle the bottle-age characters of an older wine. Luckily, you don't even need a cellar of your own to appreciate bottle-aged marsanne, as the Tahbilk winery always stashes away a healthy swag of the wine each year, eventually trickling it out in cellar door and selected retailers after it's had a chance to pick up some complexity. - Max Allen
Whatever its level of maturity, this Aussie-grown French varietal is delicious with this summer salad. Keep a bottle on ice.