One of the most important and delicious developments in Australian gastronomy over the past decade or so has been the proliferation of locally produced pale, dry rosé wines modelled loosely on the gorgeous pale, dry rosé of Provence.
Yes, I know this is a big call ("One of the most important developments in gastronomy"? Seriously?), but I'm sticking to it: pale, dry rosé produced from fine-flavoured grapes such as pinot noir is a fantastically food-friendly drink that speaks of sophistication and cultural maturity. But as much as I love the style, a pale, dry rosé would be absolutely rubbish with this dish. Just think about it. Tangy buttermilk and hot spice in the marinade. Slow char-grilling. Tomatoes, chipotle chillies and garlic… Hellooo! An effete, oh-so-pale pinot rosé wouldn't stand a chance against that massive wall of flavour bearing down on your tongue.
No, what's needed is a deep magenta-coloured old-school Aussie rosé with balls: bouncy red berries, smooth 'n' sweet fruitiness and maybe some grippy tannins to round the whole thing off. A pink wine that's almost but not quite a red. And served really cold, too, in capacious tumblers. No place for fancy crystal stemware here, thank you very much.
It takes a bold, brash, deep Aussie pink to stand up to these punchy chicken wings, writes Max Allen.