"This dish is centred on the wood-burning oven at Franklin," says Moyle. "We use the smoke and dry heat three times in this recipe and the subtlety of the smoke is difficult to replicate. If you have a wood-burning oven at your disposal, I recommend processing the marrow in it, then imparting a fine smoke to the rice by finishing the dish in the oven."
- 2.25 litres (9 cups) chicken stock
- 200 gm koshihikari rice (see note)
- 100 gm diced celeriac (about ¼)
- 80 ml (1/3 cup) grapeseed oil
- To taste: lemon juice
- 1 tsp olive oil
- 200 gm cime di rapa
Smoked bone marrow
- 600 gm bone marrow pieces (about 10cm long), split in half by your butcher
- 150 gm woodchips, such as applewood or hickory
- 1For smoked bone marrow, preheat oven to 140C. Line a flameproof roasting pan with several layers of foil and heat in oven while you prepare marrow and woodchips. Lightly salt marrow, place cut-side up on a wire rack and set aside. Place woodchips in an old wok or deep frying pan and toast over high heat until they darken and begin to smoulder (5-6 minutes). Set alight with a blowtorch, then carefully extinguish by removing pan from the heat and draping a damp tea towel over it to smother the flame. Spread woodchips evenly in prepared pan, place over high heat, carefully place rack with marrow over woodchips, then cover the lot with foil and make a 1cm hole in the foil close to the rim of the pan. Place in oven and smoke until marrow is opaque and has no sign of bloodiness (25-30 minutes). Stand until cool (10 minutes), then scoop marrow from bones (reserve bones), pass through a fine sieve, whisk in an electric mixer until cool and set aside.
- 2Bring marrow bones and 2 litres stock to the boil in a large saucepan, then reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered until well flavoured (20-25 minutes), strain and set aside.
- 3Rinse rice gently in a sieve under cold running water to remove excess starch, being careful not to agitate too much. Place in a saucepan with 240ml cold water, give the pan a shake to ensure the rice sits evenly on the base, cover with foil then a lid and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook without uncovering for 8 minutes, then remove from heat and stand, without uncovering, for 8 minutes. Tip rice onto a tray and spread gently with a wooden spoon to separate.
- 4Meanwhile, combine celeriac, grapeseed oil, remaining stock and a pinch of salt in a saucepan, bring to the boil over medium-high heat and cook until celeriac is tender (7-8 minutes). Purée in
a blender until smooth and set aside.
- 5Bring marrow-bone stock to the boil in a saucepan over high heat, add rice, reduce heat to medium and simmer until almost all the stock is absorbed (18-20 minutes). Add celeriac purée and smoked bone marrow, stir to combine, then season to taste with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice.
- 6Heat olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat and toast cime di rapa until lightly blackened (3-5 minutes). Scatter leaves over hot smoked bone marrow rice and serve.
Note Koshihikari rice is available from Japanese grocers. If it's unavailable, substitute another good sushi rice.
Drink Suggestion: Something to counter the fat, such as Argalà Pastis Artigianale from Italy.