With its high-wire act of empty birdcages, China Lane looks at first like the setting for an arthouse film. Inside, the dreamscape continues: is this 1930s Shanghai peopled with coolly confidentMad Menextras? The suited-up lunchers are here for the smart Asian eats and great-value drinks. Duck pancakes, pork sang choi bau, and salt and pepper prawns may be familiar Cantonese tropes, but the versions here win in the details: delicate steamed pancakes, juicy duck breast, crackly of skin, masterful tapioca-crusted prawns. The more inventive dishes highlight the kitchen’s skill in skipping across Asia, flavours blending harmoniously rather than haphazardly. Raw kingfish is zippy with wasabi and shiso; sticky satay pork ribs are soulfully street style; while chocolate ginger mousse with salted peanut ice-cream is decadent fun. Staff are proficient, polished and adept at aligning the stars for laneway lovers.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
