They’re not afraid of smoke and mirrors at Gastro Park. The smoke may nearly be literal, too, in the case of the liquid-nitrogen fog streaming from a shell loaded with a bright scallop and pomegranate ceviche. The room is bistro-like, and the service low-key, but the food doesn’t want for ambition. The restaurant is so named to flag a dedication to playing around with the boundaries of dining. Cynics may wonder if the liquid nitrogen, gels and “textures” boundaries of the molecular cuisine era were crossed years ago, but there’s no denying that these guys know how to cook. Owner Grant King’s years at Pier mean that fish is reliably dazzling: bass groper against a lush backdrop of shimeji, smoked radish and soy, say, or barramundi in duck broth scattered with its scales made crisp and delicious. Twists of caramelised apple skins over pain perdu and balsamic ice-cream are typical, too, of the showstopping calibre of the sweet finish.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
