A sense of adventure permeates Kiin’s predominantly Northern Thai menu, fuelled largely by regular research trips to the Land of Smiles. Chiang Mai “phat Thai” rice cakes channel the chaos of city street vendors, sizzling on tao charcoal burners visible from perches at the kitchen counter. Karen rice – a nod to the Karen people who call the mountainous Golden Triangle home – draws contented sighs across the warehouse-style room thanks to its earthy-fragrant congregation of bamboo shoots, Thai basil, ginger and chicken fat. Salads, like a “som tum” of red and green grapes, burst with colour and energy, while a red-curry cheeseburger overflows with Provolone, “ketsup” and fun. The wine list sparks joy, spruiking emerging local producers and European gems, and so too do the chilli-laced Mak Mak Martini and Splice-inspired panna cotta. It’s all proof that wild creativity hits the mark if it’s backed by a solid understanding of the source material.
Jack Fenby
