Project Forty Nine is a love letter to Beechworth. That’s where owners Rocco Esposito and Lisa Pidutti have a farm, make wine and own a food and wine store, also called Project Forty Nine. They’ve brought that region to this smartly converted warehouse space in Collingwood, showcasing its produce in dishes like mushroom and chestnut raviolo in a deeply flavoured porcini broth, a vibrant mantecato made with trout from Harrietville and in grilled ox tongue with a purée of mustard fruits. There’s wine from the region, too, including their own elegant chardonnay, but Italian labels are also present. Young chef Tim Newitt heads the open kitchen – sometimes overcomplicating things, but more often nailing the “good ingredients, cooked simply” Italian brief. Risotto made with King River Gold cheese, walnuts and grapes or an admirably constructed tiramisù are the stuff that return visits are made of, whether you’re visiting Collingwood or Beechworth.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
