“Lobster is an indulgence, but if it’s not cooked with care it can be very average,” says Toft. “In this dish the lobster must remain just cooked, while still releasing its essence into the pasta and sauce. I prefer to get the flavour from the fresh lobster, lightly crushed tomato flesh and olive oil rather than from any bisque technique; butter is a no-no too. A splash of olio nuovo added right at the end will make it feel even more like an occasion.”
This was a popular dish at Peter Doyle’s Palm Beach restaurant, Reflections, in the ’80s, using the local-area Palm Beach lobster. “It was delicious then and it’s still delicious today” says Doyle, now chef at Est in Sydney.