With chandeliers, meticulously ironed linen, charming service and menus that riff on grand Roman ristorante, Grossi Florentino is one of the foundations of Melbourne's dining scene.
Khanh Nguyen, Melbourne's latest chef hero, deftly mixes a grab-bag of Malaysian, Indonesian and Vietnamese traditions with native ingredients to deliver something shockingly new.
Ben Shewry recognises the expense of his world-famous 10-ish course meal and strives to honour Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds, completely and beautifully.
Bar Lourinhã's emphatic 15-year influence on Melbourne's dining scene DNA has it nudging institution status, even if its fresh, modern energy makes that label seem odd.
