"Admittedly, on the surface this dish seems a bit odd," says Achatz. "Cocoa, pumpkin, cardamom, lamb? This is a perfect example, however, of a technique we use frequently at Alinea called 'flavour bouncing'."
At Sixpenny, Daniel Puskas uses a dry-ages lamb rump for a richer natural flavour paired with a caramelised pumpkin juice. Made with a cabernet sauvignon vinegar, the complex juice is sweet with a slight acidity.
"The chilli-tamarind caramel is something I learnt while working at the now-closed Universal," says Anchovy chef Thi Le. "It's a version of a tamarind caramel that is savoury rather than sticky-sweet, which is what makes the glaze so balanced."