Destinations

A chef's guide to where to eat in Copenhagen

Each month, we ask the world’s best chefs to share where to eat and drink in their hometowns. Christian F Puglisi shows us around Denmark's capital.

Slurp Ramen Joint, Copenhagen
The major question in terms of sustainability is how to expand people's understanding of produce. People don't understand where their food comes from. It's part of the reason we decided to start Farm of Ideas. It's asking the question: "What is the agricultural system we are in, and what influence can we as chefs and restaurateurs have on it?"
Our values need to focus on serving nature rather than trying to dominate it. One way we're doing this is by growing more than 150 varieties of vegetables for our restaurants and sourcing products from our own animals. We're never 100 per cent in control, but we have to use our skills and ideas to make the most out of it for the sake of the planet.
Christian F Puglisi. Photo: Karl Ejnar Jørgensen

Gasoline Grill

One place that does a good job of applying sustainability to their day-to-day business is Gasoline Grill. It's famous for making amazing burgers and it's also certified organic. The meat is ground on-site daily and it sells out every day. There are six locations across the city, but it started at a gas station, hence the name.
Landgreven 10, 1300 København, Denmark, gasolinegrill.com

Sanchez Cantina

The restaurant I visit the most is Sanchez by Rosio Sanchez. What stands out is that it brings flavours to the plate that you don't really find anywhere else in Copenhagen. It's unique and you can't beat it for Rosio's inventive Mexican dishes. The combination of acidity and flavours from smoked chillies and fruit is something special.
Istedgade 60, 1650 København V, Denmark, +45 311 166 40, lovesanchez.com

Slurp Ramen Joint

An extremely ambitious ramen project. The chefs are very focused on the quality of the product and make all of the noodles themselves. The kitchen essentially runs as a line in a fine-dining restaurant, which is quite impressive for what it is.
Nansensgade 90, 1366 København, Denmark, slurpramen.dk

Bæst

When I entertain I want to be able to share food with friends, and there's nothing quite like sharing the burrata at Bæst. Being my own restaurant I'm obviously biased, but it's also my house. Bæst has a butchery and micro-dairy upstairs where we make all our charcuterie and raw-milk cheeses, something that is unique in Denmark.
Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N, Denmark, baest.dk

Tigermom

Lisa Lov, a former sous chef at Relæ, opened Tigermom in 2018. The menu is an eclectic view on her Cambodian and New Zealand roots with a modern mix of Asian flavours and personality. It has a set menu that changes all the time but one dish that really stood out for me was scallop with XO butter. While working at Relæ, Lov learnt how to source the finest produce and champion the sustainable agenda, and this is something she brings to Tigermom.
Ryesgade 25, 2200 København, Denmark, tigermom.dk

La Banchina

If you want to eat where the locals eat, head to La Banchina for simple tasty fish by the water. This is usually where you'll find me on a summer's day. The chef, a former apprentice of mine, makes no compromises and only sources fish that he can serve with a good conscience.
Refshalevej 141, 1432 København, Denmark, labanchina.dk

Broaden & Build

Brought to you by the Amass team, Broaden & Build is a great place to go with a few friends. It's a brewery in an old warehouse with a taproom and delicious bar snacks, like its famous fried chicken. The food is simple, organic and ingredient driven.
Refshalevej 175A, 1432 København, Denmark, broadenandbuildcph.com

Mirabelle Bakery

When I'm on the road, the one thing I miss is sourdough from Mirabelle Bakery. It's the bread we serve at all our restaurants, and if you eat at Mirabelle restaurant you can see it being made at our in-house bakery. We've expanded with croissants and a few laminated doughs that I'm very proud of. We keep the offering limited so that we have less waste and keep the quality high.
Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N, Denmark, mirabelle-bakery.dk

Ved Stranden 10

If I have something to celebrate, I'll most likely head to Ved Stranden 10. It's refined but still manages to feel casual. I love it. My restaurant and wine bar Manfreds was, I dare to say, one of the first venues to really push the natural-wine agenda in Copenhagen. It's about simplicity and high quality.
Ved Stranden 10, 1061 København K, Denmark, vedstranden10.dk
Last year we added Rudo to the Relæ community. It's a vermouth-focused bar that we have great pleasure working on. It's a drink-focused venue so the food is quite simple. There are things like house-made charcuterie, and the most popular dish is the stracciatella and black-truffle toast.
Guldbergsgade 29, 1st floor, 2200 København, Denmark, rudo.dk
As told to Jessica Rigg for The Local Tongue. For chef's guides from around the world, see the thelocaltongue.com