On the house: Bar Brosé in four drinks

Ed Loveday at Bar Brosé

Ed Loveday at Bar Brosé

Ed Loveday, co-owner and co-sommelier at Sydney's Bar Brosé, walks us through the line-up.

It's sad to say it, but these days there really aren't many places in Sydney where you can go for a decent bottle of wine and something to eat when it gets late. We'd often be left scratching our heads when a table of diners at Acme, our restaurant in Rushcutters Bay, finished dinner and asked us, "Where can we go for another bottle of wine like the one we just had?"

So here it is, Bar Brosé, a natural wine bar with a late licence. It's a flexible experience, though. We open from 5pm and you can come early for a glass before pushing on elsewhere, book a table with friends for dinner, or swing through late for dessert and some cocktails.

Yes, the wines are "natural", and depending upon what camp you come from, maybe that's a dirty word. There's still something for everyone, though. The list runs the full gamut from conventional and familiar to mind-bending intergalactic juice. All wines are made with a metric tonne of love and consideration for the soil they come from, and for the consumer that drinks them.

To start: house Spritz

There's more to spritzing than just Aperol. In fact, there's an infinite universe of spritzing possibilities just waiting for you. We're pretty into the organic Rondò Aperitivo from Alto Adige. It sits somewhere between Aperol and Campari, both in bitterness and alcohol content. Our current house Spritz is a nip of Rondo, topped with a dry and neutral prosecco (letting the Rondo do most of the talking), a splash of sparkling water and a sprig of Thai basil for an aromatic lift. Pure party-starting stuff - sound the vuvuzela.

Next up: NV Puffeney Arbois "Cuvée Sacha" Savagnin-Chardonnay, Jura, France

Jura wine veteran Jacques Puffeney has been dubbed the "Pope of Jura", synonymous both with the region and its style of intentionally oxidised whites. Sadly Puff Daddy has recently retired, but we were lucky enough to snag the last-ever 24 bottles of CuvéeSacha to land on Australian shores. The process of exposing the wine to oxygen gives it a moreish nuttiness and savouriness. Oxy wines will complement pretty much any food, but for a three-point fade-away team it with a one of Analiese Gregory's gougères. They're made with Comté cheese from the same region. Get at it while you still can.

Still thirsty? 2013 Brendan Tracey Pineau d'Aunis, Loire Valley, France

One of the tastiest bottles of red I've had recently. Pineau d'Aunis is a variety grown almost exclusively in the Loire Valley. It's not easy to find. On top of an already declining production (tighter AOC guidelines have forced producers to favour the likes of gamay and cabernet franc), there is only a minuscule amount imported into Australia. Winemaker Brendan Tracey grew up on the northern Californian hippie trail before moving to the Loire in his late teens. He's spent time making wine with local legend Thierry Puzelat and their friendship is evident in their wines. Brendan's pineau d'Aunis is a total dream. It's deceptively light in colour with vivid bright cherries and raspberries on the nose and a touch of white pepper spice. You could also serve it slightly chilled on a shorts day.

To finish: Heiwa Shuzo Yuzushu

This is the ultimate "Clear all history" button for your palate, made with equal parts junmai sake and yuzu juice. The yuzus are juiced with their skins on, resulting in a refreshingly sweet, tart and bitter drink. It's long been our go-to post-meal splash at Acme, and we've got bottles on hand at Brosé too. At 7.5 per cent alcohol it also leaves you plenty of room for other activities.

Bar Brosé, open Wed-Sat 5pm until late, Sun from 3pm, 231A Victoria St, Darlinghurst, NSW, barbrose.com.au

See our 'On the house' features with Dave Kerr from Melbourne cocktail bar The Beaufort, or with Banjo Harris Plane, co-owner and sommilieur of Melbourne's Bar Liberty.


Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Trash Tiki comes to Australia
The Gold Coast pale ale that has wooed beer-drinkers
Leading Sydney sommelier opens She Loves You in Newtown
Jim Meehan takes PDT to Hong Kong
Drinking Australia's native ingredients
P&V Merchants opens in Sydney, stocking small-batch and hard-to-find booze
The Gourmet Traveller podcast

Each fortnight we round up the most interesting characters from the food world for your listening pleasure. We chat to chefs, cooks, authors, bar tenders and baristas - anyone who has something new and interesting to say about the way we like to eat and drink.

Recipe collections

Looking for fresh dinner ideas? Not sure how to make the most out of seasonal produce? Or do you need to plan the perfect party menu? Our recipe collections have you covered.

See more

You might also like...

Jennifer Hawkins Sesion tequila

Tequila is the new black. At least it is for Jennifer Hawkin...

Top drops: March 2017

From a floral bottle of English bubble to a tangy gin perfec...

Signature drink: Hains & Co's Crimson Mainsail

Don’t be fooled – this cocktail looks pretty but packs a pun...

Australian sour beers

Craft brewing in Australia is hitting a sour note, and that’...

Original Sin's Grande Bellezza

A fresh, bright Italian-accented sundowner.

Short restaurant wine lists

Small is the order of the day in restaurants, with tight win...

Mitch Monaghan, Nespresso

We caught up with Nespresso Australia and New Zealand coffee...

Signature Drink: The Baxter Inn’s Charlestown

Grab the mink and the fedora – this Baxter cocktail means bu...

Seedlip, a non-alcoholic distilled spirit, arrives in Australia

The question of what to drink when you’re not having a drink...

Game up your G&Ts with a Distiller’s Strength Gin

Is this the year of gin going where no botanicals have gone ...

Trash Tiki comes to Australia

Wishful drinking meets mindful upcycling as Trash Tiki bring...

Signature drinks

Thirty of our favourite drinks from Australia's best bars an...

Hot 100 2015 - Drinks

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

Mover, shaker

The best thing you can take to a party, according to cocktai...

Best Australian red wines for drinking now

Australians are getting a taste for thirst-quenching reds ma...