"This is a relatively recent addition to the Thai repertoire, coming onto the streets about 50 years ago. The secret to the dish, I think, lies in the tempering of the wok, which imbues this simple stir-fry with a smoky tinge. Although beef was probably the first meat to be used, now minced chicken or pork, whole prawns or scored squid, even fish dumplings are cooked in this way. I find a rather coarse mince yields the best result - ideally done by hand, and using a cut of beef with some fat attached, such as flank, rump or shoulder.
Strangely, for this dish I find that mincing or chopping the garlic and chillies gives a better flavour than pounding them. Add as many small chillies as you can bear - head towards 10, as this dish is meant to be hot - the fieriness is offset by the supple richness of the fried eggs. I like the sauce seasoned with fish sauce alone but some cooks will add a little oyster sauce or even some chilli jam. This dish and an egg or two over some steaming rice, with a bowl of chillies in fish sauce alongside, is Thai ambrosia."