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Hija de Sánchez, Copenhagen

Ex-Noma pastry chef Rosio Sánchez makes a (taco) stand in the Danish capital.

You want cod skins or rose petals with your tacos? Then head to Hija de Sánchez, the taquería that former Noma pastry chef Rosio Sánchez has opened in Copenhagen's Torvehallerne markets. Her aim is to serve authentic tortillas, for which she's importing corn from Oaxaca and making her own masa daily, then she's playing around with the rest. "As long as we have the corn that's coming from Mexico, we can fill them with something deliciously local, then that's fine," says Sánchez.

Traditionalists won't go past the chicken mole made from a dozen or so chillies blended with chocolate, while crisp cod skins served with tomato and jalapeño salsa are reminiscent of the classic chicharrón you might get in Mexico.

Her first guest chef, Lars Williams, a fermentation freak who's responsible for the weird and wonderful in Noma's research kitchen, gave his tacos a "new Nordic" touch scattering purple rose petals over his black-bean miso, fermented habanero, smoked butter and gooseberry combo. A snip at $15 for two.

Sánchez, who was born in Chicago to Mexican parents, worked in New York before heading to Noma and Copenhagen five years ago. The Danish capital is an apt place to start her own venture because there's a need for good Mexican food and also because of her support crew led by her former Noma boss René Redzepi, Williams and the many others lined up to guest chef in the taco stand.

Hija de Sánchez, Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, 1360, Copenhagen K


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