The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

The coffee revolution in Paris

Ten Belles

Ten Belles

A slew of new cafés is changing Parisians’ daily grind.

A slew of new cafés is changing Parisians' daily grind. 

The coffee revolution that has transformed the start of the day in cities such as Melbourne and London has finally surfaced in Paris. To be sure, some of the most stately cafés turn out the over-extracted, overheated swill most Parisians still drink, but, if you know where to go, you can find a coffee that could pass in Sydney or San Francisco. "Le flat white" is now French for coffee.

In fact, there's an antipodean current running through many of the best cafés in Paris. You might hear a familiar accent from behind the bar, and some recognisable options on the menu when you've pushed through the crowds at Holybelly - opened by Nico Alary, who worked at Melbourne's Market Lane - on a quiet backstreet off the stylish but still scruffy Canal Saint-Martin (holybel.ly). Or take a seat outside Fondation Café, a tiny espresso bar close to the Square du Temple in the Marais, opened by Sydney native Chris Nielson, who pulled shots at Mecca Espresso.

Not that these shops are simply copies of what you find in Australia. Some are in settings so regal and chic they could only be in Paris. There's Honor, an exquisitely stark kiosk in the courtyard of the Comme des Garçons building on the rue St-Honoré (honor-cafe.com), and Café Kitsuné, a coffee bar in the colonnaded arcade of the Palais Royale (shop.kitsune.fr).

It's that sense of place that sets these cafés apart. The real draw of Télescope, where fashion insiders cosy up in a buttercream-coloured room close to the Palais Royale, or Ten Belles (tenbelles.com), where the attractively dishevelled spill out onto the street off the Canal Saint-Martin, is that they are populated by the tastemakers who give the city its character. Go for the expertly made coffee, stay for the scene.

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2017 Restaurant Guide

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