If anyone’s positioned to forecast what lies ahead for Australian cocktails, it’s Evan Stroeve. In 2021, the Sydney bartenders was named Australian Bartender of the Year in Diageo’s prestigious World Class competition – a fitting honour for a young gun who cut his teeth at the legendary Shady Pines Saloon, before assuming general manager roles at the sorely missed Bulletin Place at Matt Whiley’s pioneering waste-conscious bar, Re.
“More now than ever, bartenders are using cocktails to tells stories that extend beyond spirit, syrup and juice, and to reconnect with people to the things that consume,” he says.
This decidedly holistic approach is front and centre in the Waratah Spritz, a produce-driven, low-ABV palate primer. To build it, Stroeve begins by infusing apera, or Australian dry sherry, with yuzu grown by Hunter Valley citrus farmer Peter Dryden. Rhubi Mistelle – the rhubarb aperitif Stroeve co-founded in 2020 – adds bittersweetness, and a piquant native shrub by fermenter Gabriel Gutnik (owner of Ziggy’s Wild Foods) doubles down on the tartness.
“To make a good cocktail, you need a garden, field, orchard or vineyard and, above all, people to tend them,” say Stroeve. “I hope the future continues to explode with their stories.”
How to make a Waratah Spritz
To make yuzu apera, peel 300gm of whole yuzu, set aside skins and slice the peeled fruit into very thin wheels. Combine slice fruit and peel with 750ml Australian Apera in a sealed container, refrigerate overnight, then strain, discarding fruit and peel. In a wine glass, combine 40ml yuzu apera, 20ml Rhubi Mistelle and 15ml Ziggy’s Wild Foods Wild Strawberry Gum, Watermelon & Feral Orange Shrub (see note). Top with ice, 80ml soda water and stir lightly to combine. Garnish with a lemon myrtle leaf.
Note: Ziggy’s Wild Foods Wild Strawberry Gum, Watermelon & Feral Orange Shrub is available from ziggyswildfoods.com.au and select stockists.
Aperas to try
Pennyweight Constance Fino
Pennyweight Constance Fino
The Morris family’s commitment to organic, biodynamic farming comes through in their fino’s purity and brightness.
$32 for 375ml.
Seppeltsfield DP117 NV Solero Dry Flor Apera
Seppeltsfield DP117 NV Solero Dry Flor Apera
Seppeltsfield’s take on fino sherry is briny, yeasty and desert-dry, with hints of green apple, marzipan and Sicilian olives.
$35 for 500ml.
Chambers Dry Flor Apera
Chambers Dry Flor Apera
Now made by sixth-generation winemaker Stephen Chambers, this benchmark fortified hums with nuttiness, faint cheesiness, floral perfume and brisk salinity.
$20 for 750ml.
