Bar Rochford is a masterclass in balance, here for the party but bringing a level of food, booze and service that’s truly special. Sure, the pared-back, concrete-floored space can get raucous, but the pitch-perfect vinyl soundtrack (Grace Jones, Fleetwood Mac, reggae and dub) makes hubbub integral to the experience. It mirrors the menu of wine-friendly food – grill-striped bread topped with anchovies and caper-forward sauce gribiche; deftly cooked and smoky beef tongue skewers; orecchiette tossed with cavolo nero, parmesan and punchy Calabrian chilli – that has the flavour volume turned to 11. Then again, the cracking drinks list might just be Rochford’s raison d’être, highlighting artisan makers from across the globe alongside concise, considered collections of everything from sherry and Armagnac to amaro and Madeira. A cherry and frangipane tart proves there’s good sweet stuff, too, yet the endearing attitude might just be sweetest of all: a perfect calibration of welcoming and cool.
