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Recipes with peaches

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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Malaysian table salad (Ulam)


You'll need

3 Japanese eggplants, cut into 5cm chunks (see note) 8 small okra 150 gm snake beans, cut into 5cm lengths 1 Lebanese cucumber, cut into batons   Sambal relish 500 gm dark palm sugar 150 ml fish sauce 300 gm dried shrimp, rinsed and finely chopped (see note) 100 gm long red chillies, finely chopped 5-10 small red chillies, finely chopped 3 red shallots, finely chopped To taste: lime juice

Method

  • 01
  • For sambal relish, combine palm sugar, fish sauce, dried shrimp and long red chilli in a saucepan, add 3 cups of water and stir over low heat until sauce is thick and syrupy. Add small red chilli and shallot and simmer for another minute. Season to taste with salt, cool, then season to taste with lime juice.
  • 02
  • Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Add eggplant and cook for 30 seconds, drain and refresh in iced water. Drain well and set aside. Repeat with okra and snake beans.
  • 03
  • Arrange eggplant, okra, snake beans and cucumber on a plate, dress with shallot-chilli relish and serve with rice.
Note Japanese eggplants are the long thin variety, available from supermarkets. Dried shrimp are available from Asian food stores.

This salad may include raw and blanched vegetables such as snake beans, cabbage, and cucumber, plus a host of tropical herbs. It is often teamed with sambal belacan - the assertive relish comprising roasted shrimp paste, chilli and lime juice. I've also enjoyed it with tempoyak (a relish made with durian) and a simple sauce of coconut milk, sea salt and sugar. On a recent visit, I enjoyed this salad with a sweet-savoury relish of dried shrimps, shallots, tangy lime juice and chilli at Stan's Assam & Garam Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. It's shown here with our recipe for fish head curry.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Featured in

Apr 2007

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