For muscatel ice-cream, bring cream, milk and 100ml muscat to the simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk yolks and sugar in a bowl until thick and pale (4-5 minutes), add cream mixture, whisk to combine. Return to saucepan and stir continuously over low-medium heat until mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon thickly (5-6 minutes), strain into a bowl placed over ice and cool completely. Meanwhile, simmer muscatels and remaining muscat in a small saucepan over medium-heat until muscat is nearly absorbed and muscatels are plump (4-5 minutes), set aside. Freeze cream mixture in an ice-cream machine, stir through muscatel mixture and freeze until required. Makes about 1.5 litres.
Preheat oven to 170C. Simmer muscat and muscatels in a small saucepan over medium-heat until muscat is nearly absorbed and muscatels are plump (4-5 minutes), set aside. Beat butter and 250gm sugar until pale and creamy (3-4 minutes), add eggs, beat to combine. Sift over flour, baking powder and 60gm cocoa and mix to combine. Stir in milk and muscatel mixture, then chocolate. Divide among 6 lightly buttered 500ml ovenproof moulds and set aside.
Combine remaining sugar and remaining cocoa in a heatproof bowl, add 375ml boiling water, stir to combine. Pour over pudding batter, dividing equally, then bake until puddings are risen and a skewer withdraws clean (15-20 minutes). Dust with cocoa and serve hot with muscatel ice-cream.
This recipe is based on food director Emma Knowles's mum's
self-saucing chocolate pud - with added muscat-plumped muscatels
and chunks of bitter chocolate. You could skip making the ice-cream
(our take on rum 'n' raisin), but the effort pays dividends.