Lunch Fri-Sun noon-2.30pm
Dinner daily 5.30pm-11pm
Heading into its third year, the luxurious Melbourne outpost of Heston Blumenthal's London restaurant is becoming more spry than stately. The historical British framework persists: you'll try modern interpretations of dishes enjoyed by kings and courtiers, rendered with impeccable attention to detail - and the occasional dash of liquid nitrogen. "The Meat Fruit" (an exemplary chicken liver parfait cloaked in a jellied impression of mandarin peel) is compulsory. The frumenty (14th-century-style gruel gussied up and topped with grilled octopus) is compelling, smoky and strange. There are more Australian influences now (marron in the cucumber soup, eucalyptus flavouring the roast groper) and even some local dishes: the Vegemite ice-cream (six months in development) is a fun, umami-laden confection. For memorable special occasions, Dinner is a winner. The room is grand and the service team turns delivering food and drink into captivating theatre.