When you’ve got something to celebrate, Fico is a food-loving Hobartian’s go-to venue. But a nine-course dégustation isn’t always what you feel like on a Monday evening. Enter Pitzi (Italian for “little one”), Fico’s charming new sibling, situated around the corner and open for pasta, focaccia and a glass of Chianti from 4pm.
Pitzi is brimming with cheerful casualness – a communal table at the front of the tiny space has a view of the open kitchen and tables for two and four at the elevated rear are on cosy terms with a giant metal artwork by co-owner Oskar Rossi’s late father, artist Tom Samek. Don’t let the casual vibe fool you though, the food here is on a par with anything at Fico.
Hazelnut oil enlivened by anchovies transforms fresh focaccia, best paired with a two-bite portion of pork belly, dusted with porchetta spices and sitting atop a fresh sorrel leaf. Good pork belly requires great crackling, and here it’s satisfyingly crunchy, while the meat is full of flavour. Another two-bite entrée is a fried cube of spaghetti carbonara, which sees the Roman classic of pasta, egg and guanciale set and pressed before being cut then coated in an armour of golden crumbs. Offset its richness with a plate of pickled onions and fennel salami.
The Fico team is Rossi and his wife Federica Andrisani, and here they have been joined by Fico sous chef Dana Gleeson. Having Pitzi located literally steps from Fico makes it possible for the team to run both restaurants. Just four pastas make up the main event here and they change slightly from day to day depending on ingredients. Chubby spirals of fusilloni are paired with a chunky sauce of wild venison in white wine and butter. The pasta has the perfect bite and the venison is fall-apart tender. Fettuccine Alfredo is an exercise in simplicity – a creamy Parmigiano-Reggiano coating thick strands of pasta then topped with a generous serving of shaved black truffle that provides a deep earthiness. In another dish, a rich Neapolitan ragù is baked into a timballo with eggplant and is big enough to share.
Not surprisingly given Fico’s track record as a restaurant with a stellar wine list, the drinks are on par here too. Italian cocktails made with Tasmanian spirits are a good way to begin and from there, the list is split almost equally between Tasmania and Italy. Post-prandial digestifs are
all Italian with the exception of a Remnant whisky. Desserts are simple – a wedge of Tongola cheese, a coffee granita or just-poached apricots from Oskar and Federica’s backyards served with a scoop of vanilla gelato and drizzled with olive oil and a scattering of salt.
Expectations of Pitzi were high and so far, they’re meeting them with ease. Welcome to the family, little one.
