Breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-10.30am, Sat-Sun 8am-11am;
Lunch daily noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm, Sun 6pm-8pm
Kensington Street bears the hallmarks of a restaurant rolled out by a chef with a lot of other restaurants. That chef is Jason Atherton, the most successful of Gordon Ramsay's protégés, captivating diners with gleaming fit-outs, smart-casual dining and big, inclusive menus in London, Hong Kong, Manhattan and now Chippendale. Some attempts at local colour fall flat: a septic-seeming Vegemite Martini, a small swatch of hapuku lost in cauliflower-cheese purée. But the signature mushroom tea (with smoked bone marrow and gentleman's relish toasts, no less) transcends its fussy presentation with pure flavour, while a splash of asparagus juice adds an inspired lift to goat's curd and baby beetroot salad. Baked caramel apple puff pastry with pickled apple may make you long for desserts that are constructed rather than deconstructed, but well-drilled service and a surprisingly nuanced wine list keep Kensington Street social.
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