The summer issue

Our summer-packed January issue is out now - featuring our guide to summer rieslings, strawberries and seafood recipes, as well as a look at the best of Bali.

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Recipes with peaches

Whether caramelised in a tarte Tartin, paired with slow-roasted pork on top of pizza or tossed through salads, this sweet stone fruit is an excellent addition to summer cooking.

Black Star Pastry to open in Carlton, Melbourne

Instagram’s most famous cake, plus a few other sweet hits, is heading south.

Knives and Ink chef tattoos

What is it about chefs and tattoos? A new book asks the inked to answer for themselves.

Ben Shewry's favourtie souvlaki restaurant in Melbourne Kalimera Souvlaki Art

Attica’s chef isn’t happiest when eating soils or smears on his days off, it’s souvlaki. We follow him to his favourite spot.

AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

Seabourn Encore luxury cruise ship

Australia is about to get its first glimpse of Seabourn Encore, a glamorous new addition to the Seabourn fleet.

Berry recipes

Whether it's raspberries paired with chocolate in a layer cake, or blueberries with lemon in a tart; berries are a welcome addition to any dessert. Here are delicious recipes with berries.

Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Outstanding Contribution to the Industry 2009: Donlevy Fitzpatrick

You don’t need to be old to appreciate so many things we take for granted were simply not possible 25 years ago. Take Victoria’s liberal – and enlightened – licensing laws, in relation to consuming beverages with or without food, for example. It wasn’t that long ago that pubs provided the only glimmer of opportunity when it came to casual, sensible drinking without having to order a meal. For those who found the sound of an extracted cork preferable to the sound of the dogs on the radio, it wasn’t a great scenario.

It took many forward-thinking, determined people to change that and a key player among them was the late Donlevy Fitzpatrick: an engineer; restaurateur; property developer; and vigneron. Mostly, however, Don Fitzpatrick was a dreamer who didn’t see why his vision of making Melbourne more European – for want of a better expression – wasn’t possible.

In the late 70s, he acquired shops in the inner bayside suburb of Middle Park. Recognising how staid the city’s food and beverage industry was, and that casual dining and drinking was largely restricted to the hotel industry, he opened his first restaurant, Donlevy’s. It was a wonderful place, launched many careers in food and wine, and is widely regarded as one of Melbourne’s first modern café-style restaurants.

The Vic Ave Cafe in Albert Park followed, and St Kilda was next. Fitzpatrick adopted the raffish suburb early, and embarked on several renovation projects including the Harley Court and Colombo Court buildings in Acland Street, home to the still-famous Dogs Bar. It was here, through persistent lobbying, he succeeded in changing liquor licensing to allow drinking without a meal so long as food was available, as well as the licensing of outdoor seating areas. But the George Hotel in Fitzroy Street became Fitzpatrick’s greatest challenge. In the early 90s, he bought a number of buildings that formed the dilapidated 1860s complex, gaining council support for a mix of restaurants, bars, cafés and residential apartments. The Melbourne Wine Room became its flagship. The complex, and its many businesses, launched the careers of many restaurant industry players including chefs Karen Martini and Jeremy Strode. Ultimately, Fitzpatrick was a pioneer; he made St Kilda what it is today.

“The liquor law changes came about as a result of his tenacious determination to ask the question, ‘Why the bloody hell not?’,” chef and close friend George Biron, of Sunnybrae at Birregurra, said. “Every time you shared anything with him – a coffee, a drink – he lent a sense of occasion.”

Michael Kennedy, whose Healesville Hotel has become a pivotal player in the Yarra Valley food and wine business, worked with Fitzpatrick at the Dogs Bar and the George. He described him as a “manic” ideas man with lots of energy. “He was a visionary and an inspiration,” Kennedy said. “What he created in St Kilda was well and truly ahead of its time and I think all of Melbourne has him to thank for the café/bar culture that we have.”

Fitzpatrick lost his six-year battle with brain cancer in February, aged 61.

His contribution will last much longer.

WORDS JOHN LETHLEAN PHOTOGRAPHY FAIRFAX PHOTOS

This article appeared in the September 2008 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

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