Best new restaurants in Sydney
Letra House
The city has scored a new wine bar from the Love Tilly Group, with Letra House opening on Kent Street. The group’s newest addition leans Spanish, filling the snacky Spanish void left after the sudden closure of Redfern’s La Salut. Mood-wise, Letra House pays homage to the Euro bars beloved by the group’s co-owners – Matthew Swieboda, Nathanial Hatwell and Scott McComas-Williams – so expect exposed brick, leather banquettes, dark walnut timber, and low lighting. Wine by the glass is the go here, with more than 50 drops available at any given time that will change regularly, sourced from Spain, France and Italy as well as lesser-known regions in Lebanon and Greece. Meanwhile, McComas-Williams, executive chef Alex Major and head chef Brandon Jones oversee a menu that may include a doughnut with Manchego custard and anchovy; duck leg croquettes; a generous yet light Spanish tortilla with prawns; and larger plates of whole sand whiting; and Rangers Valley sirloin with tomato butter and guindilla peppers.
letrahouse.com
Clarence and V
On Clarence Street, a sophisticated all-day canteen is keeping city slickers well fed from breakfast through to dinner at Clarence and V. Former Bar Vincent chef Stella Roditis runs the kitchen, serving up understated plates of Mediterranean classics that pack a serious flavour punch. Case in point, the stuffed zucchini with avgolemono, or the simple salad of tomato and Roman beans with bagna cauda. For breakfast, cold coconut porridge sits alongside a killer vegetarian focaccia (stuffed with provolone, marinated spinach and mozzarella) and a breakfast plate teeming with ham, pickles, cheese and a soft-boiled egg. Later in the day, more substantial plates hit the pass, perhaps a pot au feu or porchetta and potatoes. All paired with a short and sharp wine list of Italian and Spanish red, white and orange.
instagram.com/clarenceandv
Golden Century
Beloved Sydney institution Golden Century has been resurrected at the Crown, moving into shiny new digs on level three of the waterfront goliath. After going into administration in 2021, the Cantonese hotspot left behind three decades of weekend yum cha crowds and late-night dining traditions. At the time, there was speculation that the Chinatown haunt had been “saved” but when that didn’t eventuate XO pipi-loving Sydneysiders were hit with a double blow. Three years on, the Haymarket favourite is back, relocating to the other end of town to join the Crown’s impressive list of restaurants – Oncore by Clare Smyth, Nobu, a’Mare and Woodcut.
“Golden Century is where it all began and we are excited to once again welcome our loyal customers, serving our beloved Cantonese classics in a picture-perfect location that overlooks Sydney Harbour and beyond,” says Golden Century co-owner Billy Wong. Much-loved menu favourites will also make their return, such as XO pipis, lobster served two ways, abalone steamboat and Peking duck, as well as yum
cha lunches and sparkling Sydney Harbour views.
Golden Century opens January 20, with bookings now open via the website.
The Grill at the International
From the team behind Shell House and The Dolphin, The Grill has landed in Martin Place and it’s already defying expectations. “We don’t want to be known as just another steakhouse,” says culinary director Joel Bickford. From first bite, Bickford is raging against type with a swish selection of snacks. “We have had a lot of fun putting together the top of the menu, which I think will be the real hero,” he says. To this end, there are chilled clams with lovage and grilled young garlic; raw beef served with oyster cream, shiso and black rice; and Port Lincoln abalone served à la Kilpatrick with bacon and seasoned with Worcestershire sauce and ketchup. “My absolute favourite dish is the veal sweetbreads with yabbies from our starters section. We spent a lot of time sourcing yabbies from WA,” says Bickford. He’s joined by head chef Charles Woodward, who spent time in the kitchens at the Lake House in Daylesford and Cottage Point Inn.
For the grill section, too, the team worked hard to exceed expectations, as Bickford explains. “We’ve really harnessed the wood-fired grill so that it’s for so much more than just for cooking steaks.” There’s lavish Southern rock lobster served three ways: with potato bread; linguini with roasted shellfish butter and fermented chilli; or in the rich French style, thermidor. A generous portion of the menu is devoted to vegetables, including a cauliflower cotoletta with sauce au poivre; wood roasted mushrooms with chickpea and pine nut cream; and white asparagus with celeriac, hazelnut and mimolette, a nutty French cheese.
internationalsydney.com
Loulou Martin Place
Above the new Martin Place Metro station, Loulou is preparing for a late February opening. The bistro, bar, boulangerie and traiteur will follow in the tradition of the Milsons Point flagship. The CBD expansion will see the 130-seater bring Frenchy-chic vibes to Elizabeth Street, which will be lined with Parisian-style streetfront tables. Expect dishes similar to the original outpost, like steak tartare with potato crisps; spanner crab, leek and Gruyère tarte; and salmon gravlax with crème fraîche and crêpes; and steak frites with café de Paris butter. Next door Petit Loulou will be more of a grab-and-go affair serving as a café and patisserie, with counters stacked with Paris-Brests, coconut palmiers, croissants and tarts, alongside rotisserie chook baguettes, Niçoise salads and golden sausage rolls.
Loulou Martin Place is slated to open in February 2025.
Prefecture 48
An ambitious Japanese multi-venue hub is bringing expertly-made Japanese pastries, intimate omakase dinners and top-shelf whisky to Sussex Street. Located in a three-storey heritage-listed warehouse Prefecture 48 encompasses six venues. Ibushi houses smoky robata grills; Garaku is an 18-seat theatrical set-course diner; Five explores European dishes with Japanese techniques and ingredients; and Omakase explores its namesake dining style at a sought-after eight-seater counter. There’s also an open-aired courtyard bar Whisky Thief; and Japan-meets-France patisserie, Dear Florence. Inside P48 (as it’s been nicknamed) you’ll find a stable of talent from the likes of Tetsuya’s and Aria; plus a beverage program co-curated by the Maybe Group. Imagined as an extension to Japan’s 47 prefectures, the precinct is the biggest venue from Azabu Group, which has already established a strong presence on Sydney’s north shore.
p48.com.au
Ruma
In Double Bay, Ruma is bringing some spice and sass to the postcode. Chef Faheem Noor (ex-Tetsuya’s) drives a menu that’s unbound by a single cuisine. Taramasalata is spruced up with spring onion and chilli oil, while tuna tartare comes with gochuchang-spiked aïoli and wonton crisps for scooping. Ravioli comes perfumed by makrut lime leaves and lemon, and beef short ribs are slow-cooked with a shiny kecap manis glaze. This globe-trotting approach is matched similarly on the breakfast menu, where a Thai-inspired chicken sausage roll comes with a fried egg and spicy nahm jim; Japanese-style shokupan toast is served with honey and cherries; and there’s even crisp house-made dosa.
rumadining.com.au
Best new restaurants in Melbourne
Kolkata Cricket Club
After building his fandom with debut restaurant Toddy Shop by Marthanden Hotel, Mischa Tropp – GT’s Best New Talent title holder– has undertaken a sprawling new venue. Kolkata Cricket Club is dishing out nostalgia, butter chicken and brews at the Crown precinct. Inspired by charming Bengali members’ bars and cricket clubs, the 150-seat pan-Indian restaurant has Bengalese threads throughout its menu. The well-armed kitchen has a woodfire hearth and tandoor-style ovens. From here expect tandoori lamb chops marinated with green papaya; butter garlic mud crab; king prawns with turmeric and coconut curry; and saffron braised duck, best enjoyed with a side of freshly cooked soft warm naans.
Punters can also keep it casual by watching the cricket over beer-battered fries with curry sauce; a thali plate; or a Bombay sandwich with mixed fried veggies, chutney and aged cheddar. With interiors by Min Chun Tseng – who also dreamed up the Toddy Shop’s façade, plus SilkSpoon and Cinque Terre – think warm colours and inviting textures.
kolkatacricketclub.com
Amatrice Rooftop
In Cremorne, there’s a lofty new Italian-leaning bar-restaurant located on the 10th floor of Cubitt Place. The mood here fuses Rome with New York, thanks to interiors by Belle’s winner of the Best Commercial Interior, Brahman Perera. With a dining room shrouded in a retractable glass roof joined by an alfresco deck, the scene is set with velvet, red marble tables and aqua subway tiles.
amatrice.com.au
Suupaa
A konbini-inspired eatery and convenience store is set to open in Cremorne. Suupaa combines the talents of Dennis Yong (ex-Parcs) and Future Future head chef Atsushi Kawakami across a multi-purpose venue that’s as focused on finessed takeaway as it is dine in. To this end, expect clever takes on bento (packed lunches) and onigiri. Stars of the menu will shake things up with a Melbourne bend (see mortadella onigiri; and fried egg, shokupan sando with curry ketchup, black garlic relish and American cheese). There will also be pork loin tonkatsu with a Vegemite-powered Bulldog-inspired barbecue sauce and fermented mustard; and even chicken and ’nduja nuggets.
Off the back of the matcha mania that swept Australia in 2024, the green tea will be a signature of the venue, mixed with Milo, shaken with ice and served in lattes. Suupaa is located within a new development on Dover Street, and will include neighbours such as Baker Bleu and creative business hub The Commons.
Suupaa is slated to open summer 2025. suupaa.au
Maison Bâtard
After being in Chris Lucas’ pipeline for more than eight years, Maison Bâtard is finally realised across four levels at 23 Bourke Street. The restaurant spans the first two floors, while the rooftop has its own open-air terrace and a supper club occupies the basement. Opulence is on the menu agenda: think grand seafood towers showcasing oysters, rock lobster, Skull Island prawns, scallop ceviche, tuna sashimi and kingfish crudo; and an omelette topped with Oscietra caviar, filled with crushed potato crisps (perhaps a nod to The Bear) and topped with sauce Parisienne. Traditional brasserie dishes will also feature, including half or whole 12-hour brined rotisserie chicken with olives; confit Ōra King salmon and zesty sauce verte; and Queensland spanner crab royal salad.
maisonbatard.com.au
Best new restaurants in Brisbane
Central
The team behind Rick Shores and Southside have taken to an underground space in Piccadilly Arcade on Queen Street with the opening Central. The Cantonese restaurant has pan-fried and steamed dumplings, drunken chicken with aged Shaoxing wine and roast duck. There are also be push-the-boat-out specialties, from South Australian abalone with XO butter and smoked bottarga to ginger and shallot-slicked lobster.
centralbne.com.au
Stan’s
Brisbane’s unstoppable expansion continues as the dreamy Howard Smith Wharves welcome Stan’s Lounge Bar, perched atop the newly transformed second level of Cantonese favourite Stanley. Inspired by old-world Hong Kong, expect dark and moody settings offset by rich jewel tones, timber accents and antique mirrored walls. With a cocktail menu focused on smart, modern twists on timeless tipples, guests are treated to a signature martini menu offering personalised drinks and an impressive list of bitters to suit any palate. The menu, helmed by Stanley’s Louis Tikaram will deliver Canto-inspired snacks. Think steamed lobster and truffle dumplings and rolled Peking duck pancakes.
stanslounge.com.au
Naldham House Brasserie & Terrace and Club Felix
Heritage-listed Naldham House in Brisbane’s CBD has received a serious makeover by the team behind beloved Brissie favourites The Gresham and Popolo Italian. Three new venues have opened in the iconic 140-year-old, three-storey building as part of Dexus’ $2.5 billion Waterfront Brisbane project on Eagle Street. Naldham House Brasserie & Terrace is set on the ground floor and leans into the historic building’s grand façade, taking inspiration from swanky hotel lobbies around the world. Guests are invited to dine on the Euro-centric menu in either the main dining room or the expansive terrace, which has its own stocked-to-the-nines bar. Above, Club Felix is the meg-venue’s late-night supper club and cocktail bar with a French-leaning and an impressive drinks offering, from funky house cocktails to an extensive Champagne list.
naldhamhouse.com.au
Best new restaurants in Adelaide
Restaurant Aptos
Former Vue de Monde and Restaurant Botanic chef Justin James will open his own venue in the Adelaide Hills. Following months of research and development, Restaurant Aptos presents the chance for James to take control of the vision as both chef and patron, with the goal of establishing a globally renowned restaurant. True to the reputation he established at Restaurant Botanic (awarded GT Restaurant of the Year in 2022 under his watch), James will hone in on ultra-seasonal produce, pulling from the great food bowl that is the Adelaide Hills. While the space is the former Aptos Cruz Galleries, it began its life 156 years ago as
a church, and will now be transformed into a series of forward-thinking dining rooms. A high-concept experience awaits, with guests moving through different spaces throughout the meal. Consequently, James has called upon Williams Burton Leopardi to furnish the space. At this stage, guests can expect a detailed 16 to 20-course fine dining menu.
Restaurant Aptos is expected to open in the first half of 2025.
The Botanic Lodge
Adelaide Botanic Gardens has welcomed another restaurant to its horticultural surroundings with The Botanic Lodge opening behind the acclaimed Restaurant Botanic, and by the same operators. Led by chef Tom Tilbury, the low-key offshoot follows in Restaurant Botanic’s tradition of taking inspiration from the surrounding gardens but with a more casual approach, showing off South Australian produce through a nostalgic lens. Think crumbed tommies in bread and butter with iceberg lettuce and mayonnaise, raw snapper with potato and beach mustard, and Golden Gaytime-inspired soft serves and lamingtons with quandong jam and coconut ice-cream for dessert.
Best new restaurants in Canberra
Carlotta
Australia’s capital is the next city on the list for Chris Lucas’ restaurant empire expansion. Carlotta is Lucas Restaurants’ first foray into Canberra and a Mediterranean brief is on the agenda. Hoping to match the buzz of Canberra’s evergrowing dining scene while also bringing decades of restaurant design and ideation experience to the table, Lucas is aiming for a springtime opening for the eatery. It joins the group’s bevy of venues in Melbourne including Society Dining Room, Lillian Brasserie, Chin Chin, Grill Americano and Yakimono; and Chin Chin in Sydney.
carlotta.com.au
Compa and &Sando
In the CBD, Matt Moran is behind a double-hitter venue Compa and &Sando. Complementary but differing concepts see Compa (a slick Italian steakhouse) matched by its casual neighbour &Sando (dishing out deli-style sandwiches). The Moran Family Farm is key to both menus with lamb, beef and pork sourced from the 405-acre farm in the Central Tablelands on show, both on the plate and in between bread. Head chef Nick Mathieson (formerly of Sydney’s Bistecca) has worked with Moran on the menus. At Compa a custom Montague grill fires up steaks on and off the bone, each served with red wine jus, peppercorn, anchovy butter or salsa verde; and tableside mustards. Other items on the menu that will be sure to pique the interest of Canberreans and visitors alike include a mac and cheese with a cacio e pepe treatment; whole trout sourced from the nearby Snowy River; and salumi made from Moran farm pork. Next door at &Sando you’ll find a hefty steak sambo; baguettes stuffed with ham, egg salad, cheddar and rocket; and ciabatta slices packed with chicken schnitzel, slaw and provolone.
comparistorante.com.au and andsando.com.au
Best new restaurants in Perth
Magic Apple Wholefoods
Cottesloe has received a café-restaurant as bright and beautiful as the azure-blue waters it overlooks. Magic Apple Wholefoods is the new bohemian-spirited waterfront spot from the team behind Gibney and Kailis Fishmarket Café. With a Tame Impala-meets-hippy grocer aesthetic, the venue leans into colourful interiors and meals. Order bright bowls that embrace fermenting traditions of the ‘70s, while still being thoroughly modern and delicious. Bowls include grated veggie fritters with sumac-roasted cauliflower, yoghurt dressing, lemon tahini and rice; steamed miso king salmon with roast eggplant, greens and ginger mayonnaise; and marinated tofu with cabbage, mushrooms, crunchy seeds and vegetable XO mayo. These are joined by a rainbow of juices, smoothies, kombuchas and tonics; alongside Margaret River wines
and cocktails.
magicapplewholefoods.com
Gibney
The grand brasserie wave is headed west with Cottesloe welcoming Gibney. The seaside grill takes cues from classic steakhouses throughout Europe, New York and Australia, with WA rock lobster, wagyu, caviar and lamb on the menu. Head chef James Cole-Bowen (ex-The Corner Dairy and Omnia Bistro) is joined by head pastry chef Richard Dormer (ex-Como The Treasury). Group sommelier Nina Throsby visited the Champagne region to build Gibney’s Champagne collection, which claims to be the biggest in WA. Owned by George Kailis – who is also behind The Shorehouse, Canteen Trigg and the forthcoming Magic Apple Wholefoods in North Cottesloe – Gibney is Kailis’ first high-end dining venture. The restaurant is hoping to bring a finessed experience – which includes guéridon service, a dining concierge and jacketed waitstaff – not seen in Western Australia before.
gibneycottesloe.com
Best new restaurants in regional Australia
The Ducks at Hotel Brunswick
Having made its mark along Australia’s east coast, Three Blue Ducks has found yet another home at Hotel Brunswick in Brunswick Heads. At The Ducks at Hotel Brunswick chefs Darren Robertson and Andy Allen weave together an intuitive coastal sensibility with Southern Californian influences and an Australiana pub ethos. Counter classics like the chicken “parmi” and beer-battered fish and chips get a Ducks redo, while punchy ceviches and tacos star alongside Australian bay lobster rolls; and prawn toast with nahm jim. An expanded wine and cocktail list one-ups the standard pub offering with highlights ranging from Jilly Wines to Japanese Slipper cocktails.
hotelbrunswick.com.au
Bertie’s
In Ballina, Bertie’s is a new café and wine bar. Deli sandwiches are its bread and butter by day – think focaccia loaded with classic fillings, be it a Caprese with high summer heirloom tomatoes, stracciatella, pesto and rocket; or one inspired by classic Aussie bakery rolls, replete with shredded carrot, beetroot, Zuni pickles, sprouts, tomato, salsa verde mayo and provolone. Later on, the olive-green chairs and turquoise-tiled countertop switch into vino mode, with small producer wines and state-focused brews on the agenda. Owners, husband and wife Tim Coleman and Rhianne Contreras, bring with them a background that includes sommelier duties at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar and a manager role at Rockpool Bar and Grill (Coleman); and food styling (Contreras).
bertiesballina.com.au
Byron Bay Oyster Bar
The Northern Rivers has a new mollusc mecca, Byron Bay Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant. Located within Hotel Marvell and taking cues from oyster bars in New England and New York, the restaurant offers an à la carte menu and live oysters. Freshness is the point of difference thanks to a land-based oyster tank, which houses and purifies 500 dozen oysters at a time. Shucked to order, the bivalves come natural, with mignonette, a Bloody Mary sauce or verjus with pomegranate; or hot, with classic servings like Kilpatrick, mornay and Rockefeller. There’s also a full raw bar, with dishes including a luxe caviar dish of potato rosti, confit egg yolk and chive crème; and tuna carpaccio with tonnato sauce, capers, rocket and native pepper. Alongside this, you’ll find lobster rolls; barbecued Mooloolaba prawns with chermoula and preserved lemon; and confit King Ōra salmon with pomegranate, watercress and verjus. An indoor-outdoor dining room makes the most of Byron’s climate; while ochre walls and sage marble up the wow factor. While it’s an obvious drawcard for Byron holidaymakers, the $3 oyster hour (Tuesday to Saturday) is bound to be a hit with locals, too.
byronbayoysterbar.com.au
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