Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller for your chance to win a $20,000 Flight Centre gift card! Offer ends 24 May 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

OzHarvest opens Australia's first free supermarket

"This is about dignity. This is about anyone walking through this door, taking what they need, and only giving back if they can."

Anzac biscuit desserts

These four desserts have one thing in common – Anzac biscuits.

Six sexy panna cottas

We say si to these six takes on the Italian classic. From coffee and caramel to red wine and figs, panna cotta proves to be a versatile dessert to suit all palettes.

Okonomiyaki with sticky soy pork belly

Persian red lentil soup with tahini, beetroot and fried mint

Lentil soup may not sound like the sexiest of dishes, but rest assured, it's a heart-warmer. We've added warming spices and served the soup with a dollop of garlicky tahini. Thin slivers of shaved raw beetroot add earthiness and texture - the beetroot is also excellent simply grated and served piled on top. The poached egg is optional, but highly recommended.

Choux Patisserie Australia’s best eclair

Nicolas Poelaert, the French chef who won praise at Brooks and Embrasse restaurants in Melbourne, is now making waves with his choux-pastry smarts in Newcastle.

10 brown rice recipes

Go wholegrain with brown rice in a bibimbap-inspired bowl of seaweed, amaranth and pickled shiitake mushrooms, serve it with Chinese roast duck, or simply fry it up Southern-style.

Blue Nile's Ethiopian eggplant dip

"I'd love the recipe for the eggplant dip the wonderful Fatuma Tikuye serves at Blue Nile in Blacktown." - Helena Rosebery, Annandale, NSW REQUEST A RECIPE To request a recipe, email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au or write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001. Please include the restaurant's name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.

Tenbones at 10 William St

Jemma Whiteman and Mike Eggert

Jemma Whiteman and Mike Eggert

Pinbone has taken over the kitchen at 10 William St in Paddington until June. Get in while you can.

Here for a good time rather than a long time - that's the ethos in the kitchen at 10 William St of late. Following the departure of long-time chef Dan Pepperell last year, the Paddington wine bar has played home to visiting fellows rather than a permanent replacement. Over the summer it was Luke Burgess, the former Garagistes chef turning Sydney on to the joys of dadinhos, Brazilian fried tapioca snacks spiked with XO sauce and showered with pecorino. Now it's Jemma Whiteman and Mike Eggert, the co-head chefs who are known collectively, along with their front-of-house partner Berri Eggert, as Pinbone.

The trio won a firm following in Woollahra, not least for their epic Sunday brunches, and their work at 10 William, which sits somewhere between the playful savour of Pepperell's menus and the crisp, cosmopolitan contribution made by Burgess, is a great fit.

To say that Whiteman and Eggert enjoy wine is akin to saying that seagulls like chips, and their cooking for the most part is very wine-savvy. The restaurant specialises in natural, predominantly Italian wines: vibrant wines, often potent with phenolics, oxidation or the intensity born of leaving the juice of the grape in contact with the skins for an extended period of time. The Pinbones aren't shy of pressing the umami button, so these wines make a fine foil for the mouth-filling richness of fried anchovies with excellent baguette and butter, or the blockbuster crespelle (aka crêpes) with smoked eel, béchamel sauce and leek. The gnocco fritto - the puffs of fried dough you'd see topped with salumi in Emilia-Romagna - topped with caramelised onion and konbu, and showered with shavings of Comté - are worthy successors to the dadinhos.

Team Pinbone's pasta dishes are marked by a combination of inventive twists and strong technique in the making of the pasta itself. The likes of sorpresine (northern-style filled pasta) aren't as wilfully out there as Acme's offerings, but nor are they slavishly traditional. The sorpresine, it must be said, want for relief from the sweetness of the lardo-on-sweet onion combination, and a plate of wholemeal gnocchetti, with a sauce of rooster and tarragon, is brought undone by a heavy hand with the Marsala. But broad ribbons of pappardelle lavished with a rich lamb ragù are pure crowd-pleasers, and a perfect pretext for exploring the red side of the wine list.

Should you require dessert, oranges brûléed to a crunchy finish, set on a dense custard and sprinkled with bits of finger lime are more than apt to the task. The composed cheese plates, though, are better still. There are few better pretexts for an 11th-hour return to that wine list than the aged Comté with sour-sweet blackened radicchio.

Everything that made 10 William such essential Sydney dining remains in place: the signature informed-yet-insouciant service style (honed at sister restaurant Fratelli Paradiso), the perpetual buzz, the endlessly fascinating conversations in the endless queue for the restroom upstairs, the quirkiness of the bottles on the back bar, the compulsory Spritzes, the downbeat electro covers of Robert Palmer hits - all as compelling as ever. This is a restaurant in its element.

Pinbone's spicy chicken sandwich

And then there's the spicy chicken sandwich, an off-menu panino crammed with fried chicken, cheese and hot sauce on a soft, shiny bun. It is god's gift to late brunchers and late-night drinkers alike.

The panini (not to mention the Pinbone party) are here till the end of June. Get in while you can.

10 William St, 10 William St, Paddington, NSW, (02) 9360 3310, 10williamst.com.au

GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Hot Plate: Face2Face Noodles, Sydney

Chinatown's new spicy Chongqing-styled noodle bar is complet...

Hot Plates: Higher Ground, Melbourne

The line between cafe and restaurant is blurred at the CBD’s...

Hot Plates: 13 February 2015

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

L'Americano, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Estelle Bistro, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bang Street Food, Sydney

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Minamishima, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Lilo Tang, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Mayflower Restaurant and Bar, Adelaide

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

The Vertue of the Coffee Drink, Melbourne

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Spirit House, Yandina, Qld

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Bistro Nguyen's, Canberra

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

University of Melbourne Farmers' Market

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

Clayton Wells at LuMi

The pair join forces for Sunday lunches at LuMi.

Farmhouse Restaurant, Pialligo Estate, ACT

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats ar...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×