Sarah Anderson
REVIEW
There are two types of late-night snacking. There’s the kerbside gobbling you’ll regret the next day, and there’s the Arlechin model, where classy ballast is served till 3am. Owned by the Grossi family, Arlechin inhabits the walk-in cellar for Florentino, which backs onto the other side of the lane. It’s been decked out like a wine cave with an arched cork ceiling and drop-down lights. The mood is cheeky, the cocktails are frisky and the food is snacky and light- hearted. You might chomp on a Sloppy Joe stuffed with baccalà and fried leek or a Bolognese jaffle, both Italian in inspiration but rethought for Melbourne’s laneways. Cured kingfish might be jazzed up with grapes and cucumber; quail is salty, fried and drizzled with a secret barbecue sauce. The key dish is the midnight spaghetti, an instant classic, furled on the plate with spiced tomatoes and capers: simple and perfect, especially in the wee hours. Service is as nimble as the food with banter doled out like snacks. Just like an all-night train, Arlechin is a community service for a 24-hour city.
Website:
Bookings:
No bookings
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef:
Guy Grossi
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
