James Moffatt
A restaurant has the ability to leave a positive mark on the world in a variety of ways. When the Ayubi family opened Parwana Afghan Kitchen on the outskirts of Adelaide’s CBD in 2009, it joined a tiny coterie of restaurants serving authentic Afghan flavours in Australia. Fifteen years later, Parwana is the place locals send visitors, confident in both its singularity and warmth; there is simply nothing else like it anywhere in Australia.
When Farida and Zelmai Ayubi arrived in Australia after fleeing Afghanistan in 1985 at the height of the Cold War, Parwana was a way to reconnect with their culture through traditional aromas and flavours. Farida’s ancestral Afghan recipes are at the heart of it all, as is the family’s warm hospitality.
It goes deeper. Through the power of food and community, the family gently reframes the perception of Afghanistan and encourages a shift in prejudice towards refugees.
The space has grown over the years but still feels intimate. Two dining spaces, one painted vivid blue and aqua, the other warm pink and terracotta, are adorned with framed family photos. A sense of community permeates the space, but it doesn’t stop there. In late 2021, the couple’s children Durkhanai, Fatema, Raihanah, Zahra and Zelaikhah helped host a two-night event to raise funds and awareness for the people of Afghanistan. Their efforts raised more than $180,000. In an effort to capture her mother’s ancestral Afghan recipes, author Durkhanai also released Parwana: Recipes and Stories from an Afghan Kitchen.
Of course, the best way to experience the evocative fragrances and flavours is in person. Guests are welcomed as if entering the Ayubis’ home and each dish has a story to tell. Whether it’s Afghanistan’s national rice dish kabuli palaw, or traditional Afghan drink rose sharbat (with rose syrup and infused with jelly-like basil seeds) it all exudes love.
Parwana doesn’t serve alcohol, but a small BYO charge goes towards feeding those in need. Just another example of how the family’s heartfelt generosity goes beyond the plate.
“As displaced people, food became both a tether and a bridge,” says Durkhanai. “It is a connection to our history, to our ancestors, a way to honour the beauty of Afghan identity and the memories of all that has been lost for Afghanistan – while also helping us to project forward and contribute something life giving to the communities we are now a part of.”
To see the full list of winners in this year’s Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards, head over here.
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