Fred's: Restaurant review

Fred's has the magic formula figured out. After three years, a fire side perch around the dreamy hearth-centred kitchen is still a coveted booking, in no small part because of chef Danielle Alvarez's intelligent, provenance first cooking. She's transplanted her Chez Panisse sensibilities to Sydney's Eastern Suburbs, such that bright, seasonal produce shines with vitality on the plates in the elegant French farmhouse room. A light touch with precise technique supports, rather than outshines, the ingredients: grapes, vibrantly sweet from roasting, tame the melty richness of a crusted, playbook perfect charcoal-grilled rack of lamb; while bitter castel franco leaves chime with the nuttiness of thinly shaved slices of raw Jerusalem artichoke, with sweet balance from a Meyer lemon dressing. A visit to Fred's would be incomplete without experiencing the rustic finesse of the house-rolled pasta and pastry, be it the agnolotti – umami bombs filled with white Bolognese – or the miso chocolate tart, with a buttery crust that shatters into a just-set custard, its deep cocoa flavour offset with burnt honey. Let the consummate staff guide you to the gems on the wine list and happily, willingly fall under Fred's spell.

Phone:
(02) 9114 7331

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Chef(s):
Danielle Alvarez